An interesting article in the San Francisco Chronicle:
"Pulling down the statues of Albania's real-life Dr. Evil, Enver Hoxha, was easy. Deleting his name from the mountain above town wasn't.
The despotic crackpot who ruled this odd little country for four decades had his first name burned into the mountainside above Berati with acid, in letters 50 feet high. They're going to be there a long time."

The author has a nice review of what to expect when you visit Berat.

http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2008/06/01/TR2V10S5LI.DTL